Today, this “road of 1,000 bends” hugs soaring cliffs and weaves tortuously in and out of deep gorges, passing olive groves, lemon terraces and tumbling whitewashed villages, all against a background of a shimmering azure sea. It is barely wide enough for two lanes of traffic, so in the crowded summer months traffic jams are inevitable, and best avoided by visiting off-season. In spring, the colours are bright, the air is fresh but the sea is chilly; better to come in late September or early October when the evenings are balmy, the water is still warm

At the eastern limit of the costiera lies the town of Vietri, a name that is synonymous with the production of the colourful ceramics you find in every restaurant, hotel and bar up and down the coast. It has very little reasonably priced accommodation, but gritty, buzzing Salerno is only 4km away and here there’s plenty of choice, such as the Verdi, a bright new B&B not far from the tourist port. Housed on the second floor of an apartment building, it has three comfortable bedrooms in bold colours (one with a small terrace) plus a living room with a long communal table for an excellent breakfast spread.
• 345-3416372 (mobile), bbverdi.it. Doubles from €70

Where to eat
It’s a little way from the centre of town but the pizzas at the Due Fratelli, baked in a wood-fired oven, are superb and come in two sizes, 700g and a massive 1.1kg. The house special is panuozzo, a kind of long, filled pizza sandwich. Try and bag a table on the top floor terrace.
• +39 089-761300, www.iduefratelli.it. Pizza from €7

Don’t miss
Designed in the 1950s by Paolo Soleri, a pupil of Frank Lloyd Wright, the Solimene ceramics factory in Vietri is an extraordinary building that houses an Aladdin’s cave of an outlet shop, stuffed with bargains. The colourful naive animal designs are instantly recognisable.
• +39 089-210243, ceramicasolimene.it

Have you ever stayed in a hotel that was recommended by a TripAdvisor reviewer as the perfect “romantic retreat”, only to encounter crayon-toting toddlers in reception, teenagers texting by the pool, and the ardour-extinguishing cries of an infant in the neighbouring suite? Or eagerly embarked on a guidebook’s “scenic” driving route to discover a traffic-clogged thoroughfare with uninspiring views of a scarred and industrial landscape? Did you spend an afternoon amid a sea of tightly packed sunloungers on a Mediterranean beach last summer, your face just inches from a pungent foreign armpit, pondering the travel guide’s interpretation of “undiscovered”?

‘Now the domain of Clare Smyth, with support from what is without doubt one of the best front-of-house teams in the UK, this most impressive of London’s premier restaurants is back in that elite club.

‘Further congratulations, too, for Smyth is the first female chef to achieve our top score in 15 years. With her brilliantly artistic, elegant, modern French cooking she perfectly complements the witty, cerebral Fat Duck and the sensual farm-to-table delights of L’Enclume at the pinnacle of our top 50 list.’

Rogan said he felt ‘so privileged to be at the number one spot for a second year’.

He said: ‘The full 10 rating really is a reflection of all the continued focus and improvements we have been undertaking at L’Enclume every single month.

‘The team just keeps on getting stronger and stronger, and we now also have a hugely skilled front-of-house staff who more than match our culinary standards.’

Cornwall’s Restaurant Nathan Outlaw took fourth spot followed by Claude Bosi’s Mayfair restaurant Hibiscus.

The guide’s consultant editor Elizabeth Carter said: ‘After a break of a decade, Gordon Ramsay’s Chelsea flagship has once again been awarded a perfect 10.

 ‘Now the domain of Clare Smyth, with support from what is without doubt one of the best front-of-house teams in the UK, this most impressive of London’s premier restaurants is back in that elite club.

‘Further congratulations, too, for Smyth is the first female chef to achieve our top score in 15 years. With her brilliantly artistic, elegant, modern French cooking she perfectly complements the witty, cerebral Fat Duck and the sensual farm-to-table delights of L’Enclume at the pinnacle of our top 50 list.’

Rogan said he felt ‘so privileged to be at the number one spot for a second year’.

He said: ‘The full 10 rating really is a reflection of all the continued focus and improvements we have been undertaking at L’Enclume every single month.

‘The team just keeps on getting stronger and stronger, and we now also have a hugely skilled front-of-house staff who more than match our culinary standards.’

Cornwall’s Restaurant Nathan Outlaw took fourth spot followed by Claude Bosi’s Mayfair restaurant Hibiscus.

The guide’s consultant editor Elizabeth Carter said: ‘After a break of a decade, Gordon Ramsay’s Chelsea flagship has once again been awarded a perfect 10.

 ‘Now the domain of Clare Smyth, with support from what is without doubt one of the best front-of-house teams in the UK, this most impressive of London’s premier restaurants is back in that elite club.

‘Further congratulations, too, for Smyth is the first female chef to achieve our top score in 15 years. With her brilliantly artistic, elegant, modern French cooking she perfectly complements the witty, cerebral Fat Duck and the sensual farm-to-table delights of L’Enclume at the pinnacle of our top 50 list.’

Rogan said he felt ‘so privileged to be at the number one spot for a second year’.

He said: ‘The full 10 rating really is a reflection of all the continued focus and improvements we have been undertaking at L’Enclume every single month.

‘The team just keeps on getting stronger and stronger, and we now also have a hugely skilled front-of-house staff who more than match our culinary standards.’

Cornwall’s Restaurant Nathan Outlaw took fourth spot followed by Claude Bosi’s Mayfair restaurant Hibiscus.

The guide’s consultant editor Elizabeth Carter said: ‘After a break of a decade, Gordon Ramsay’s Chelsea flagship has once again been awarded a perfect 10.

 ‘Now the domain of Clare Smyth, with support from what is without doubt one of the best front-of-house teams in the UK, this most impressive of London’s premier restaurants is back in that elite club.

‘Further congratulations, too, for Smyth is the first female chef to achieve our top score in 15 years. With her brilliantly artistic, elegant, modern French cooking she perfectly complements the witty, cerebral Fat Duck and the sensual farm-to-table delights of L’Enclume at the pinnacle of our top 50 list.’

Rogan said he felt ‘so privileged to be at the number one spot for a second year’.

He said: ‘The full 10 rating really is a reflection of all the continued focus and improvements we have been undertaking at L’Enclume every single month.

‘The team just keeps on getting stronger and stronger, and we now also have a hugely skilled front-of-house staff who more than match our culinary standards.’

Cornwall’s Restaurant Nathan Outlaw took fourth spot followed by Claude Bosi’s Mayfair restaurant Hibiscus.

The guide’s consultant editor Elizabeth Carter said: ‘After a break of a decade, Gordon Ramsay’s Chelsea flagship has once again been awarded a perfect 10.

 ‘Now the domain of Clare Smyth, with support from what is without doubt one of the best front-of-house teams in the UK, this most impressive of London’s premier restaurants is back in that elite club.

‘Further congratulations, too, for Smyth is the first female chef to achieve our top score in 15 years. With her brilliantly artistic, elegant, modern French cooking she perfectly complements the witty, cerebral Fat Duck and the sensual farm-to-table delights of L’Enclume at the pinnacle of our top 50 list.’

Rogan said he felt ‘so privileged to be at the number one spot for a second year’.

He said: ‘The full 10 rating really is a reflection of all the continued focus and improvements we have been undertaking at L’Enclume every single month.

‘The team just keeps on getting stronger and stronger, and we now also have a hugely skilled front-of-house staff who more than match our culinary standards.’

Cornwall’s Restaurant Nathan Outlaw took fourth spot followed by Claude Bosi’s Mayfair restaurant Hibiscus.

The guide’s consultant editor Elizabeth Carter said: ‘After a break of a decade, Gordon Ramsay’s Chelsea flagship has once again been awarded a perfect 10.

 ‘Now the domain of Clare Smyth, with support from what is without doubt one of the best front-of-house teams in the UK, this most impressive of London’s premier restaurants is back in that elite club.

‘Further congratulations, too, for Smyth is the first female chef to achieve our top score in 15 years. With her brilliantly artistic, elegant, modern French cooking she perfectly complements the witty, cerebral Fat Duck and the sensual farm-to-table delights of L’Enclume at the pinnacle of our top 50 list.’

Rogan said he felt ‘so privileged to be at the number one spot for a second year’.

He said: ‘The full 10 rating really is a reflection of all the continued focus and improvements we have been undertaking at L’Enclume every single month.

‘The team just keeps on getting stronger and stronger, and we now also have a hugely skilled front-of-house staff who more than match our culinary standards.’

Cornwall’s Restaurant Nathan Outlaw took fourth spot followed by Claude Bosi’s Mayfair restaurant Hibiscus.

The Cumbrian eatery won a perfect 10 cooking score alongside two other restaurants, Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, the first time in 15 years that the Good Food Guide to Britain’s top restaurants awarded three full marks simultaneously.

In 1999, that honour was shared by Marco Pierre White’s Oak Room, Nico Ladenis at Chez Nico and female chef Gunn Eriksen at the Altnaharrie Inn at Loch Broom, Ullapool, in Scotland.

The Fat Duck, ranked second, has now scored a perfect 10 for seven years in a row – longer than any other restaurant since the guide adopted its current scoring system.

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay achieved third place, up two places from last year.

The guide’s consultant editor Elizabeth Carter said: ‘After a break of a decade, Gordon Ramsay’s Chelsea flagship has once again been awarded a perfect 10.

‘Now the domain of Clare Smyth, with support from what is without doubt one of the best front-of-house teams in the UK, this most impressive of London’s premier restaurants is back in that elite club.

‘Further congratulations, too, for Smyth is the first female chef to achieve our top score in 15 years. With her brilliantly artistic, elegant, modern French cooking she perfectly complements the witty, cerebral Fat Duck and the sensual farm-to-table delights of L’Enclume at the pinnacle of our top 50 list.’

Rogan said he felt ‘so privileged to be at the number one spot for a second year’.

He said: ‘The full 10 rating really is a reflection of all the continued focus and improvements we have been undertaking at L’Enclume every single month.

‘The team just keeps on getting stronger and stronger, and we now also have a hugely skilled front-of-house staff who more than match our culinary standards.’

Cornwall’s Restaurant Nathan Outlaw took fourth spot followed by Claude Bosi’s Mayfair restaurant Hibiscus.

Dottor Cartelli, perché ogni anno si sente parlare sempre di 4-5 mete, come se all’improvviso tutti avessero deciso di andare in vacanza lì?
“Diciamo che dipende da molte variabili e tendenze, che a sua volta influenzano le destinazioni su cui gli operatori turistici decidono di spingere, proprio come fanno gli stilisti. Chiaro poi che anche le ‘mosse’ delle compagnie aeree sono una componente fondamentale per determinare queste scelte. Ma ai voli noi aggiungiamo i letti e quindi il pacchetto finale da proporre spetta a noi”.

Quindi, se è come la moda, già si può prevedere dove andranno gli italiani in vacanza il prossimo anno?
“Certo, pubblicando i cataloghi un anno prima è come se accendessimo i fari su certe destinazioni, selezionate per il nostro mercato in base al contesto economico e sociale, e quindi secondo certi prezzi e certe caratteristiche che in quel momento potrebbero andar bene agli italiani che vanno in vacanza. Diciamo che bilanciamo la proposta sui desideri”.

Partiamo da questa estate 2014: fino adesso quali sono state le mete più gettonate?
“Da sempre in Italia la destinazione preferita è l’Italia, e per Italia intendo la Sardegna con tutta la costa orientale fino a Villa Simius, la Sicilia e il Salento in Puglia. Va bene anche la Calabria anche se è logisticamente più complicata”.

E questo vale per i giovani o anche per le famiglie?
“Il Salento è senz’altro un luogo il cui successo è stato determinato dai giovani, ma in qualche anno ha raggiunto una fase di maturità che lo rende attraente anche per le famiglie. Sardegna e Sicilia sono al top per le famiglie dopo che qualche anno fa sono scesi i prezzi di traghetti e aerei”.

Quindi altro che Italia cara, difficile da raggiungere più dell’estero…
“Assolutamente no, anzi c’è un risveglio dell’Italia. Noi quest’anno abbiamo registrato un +14%”.

E invece la classifica delle mete estere predilette?
“Le isole della Grecia, con in testa Rodi e Creta, e naturalmente la Spagna, con Ibiza e Formentera, mete che resistono ormai da qualche anno perché sono riuscite a restare al passo coi tempi. Grecia e Spagna sono assolutamente trasversali, anzi riguardo a Ibiza va sfatato il mito che sia la meta preferita dai giovani perché invece è anche la scelta di tantissime famiglie, mentre Formentera resta il mito italiano per eccellenza. Mykonos invece è la Mecca del divertimento prescelta dal resto del mondo. Poi con la ritrovata calma politica è tornato in voga l’Egitto, dove oltre ai classici Sharm (più per i giovani) e Marsa Alam, si è aggiunta una nuova destinazione, Marsa Matrouh, con un rapporto qualità/prezzo impareggiabile, amata da chi cerca il mare sabbioso, chiarissimo, perfetta per le famiglie”.

E tra le mete lontane?
“Senza dubbio il Sudamerica, con Brasile e Argentina ma anche Cile e Perù. Poi anche gli Stati Uniti e Emirati Arabi. C’è una parte di clientela che non soffre, ma ovviamente si tratta di una piccola fetta”.

Dunque, comprendendo sia Italia che estero, chi c’è sul podio in questa estate 2014?
“Prima l’Italia, regina indiscussa. A seguire il mar Rosso e poi Spagna e Grecia”.

E a settembre qualcosa cambierà?
“Sì, settembre ovviamente non è paragonabile a luglio e agosto. In genere è il mese di chi lavora nel settore. Calano le destinazioni legate all’estate, e quindi l’Italia. Salgono il mar Rosso, Zanzibar, i Caraibi, Messico e Cuba”.

E le previsioni per il 2015?
“Le destinazioni predilette saranno in linea con quelle del 2014.Visto il sucesso di quest’anno dell’Italia ci punteremo ancora molto, poi sempre Grecia e Spagna, ma anche Tunisia, più economica e molto amata dalle famiglie”.

E le vacanze degli italiani come sono cambiate? 
“Si può dire che gli italiani sembrano più nervosi? Sono cambiate soprattutto le abitudini e aumentati gli interessi. Ora nei villaggi non bastano più le attività ‘classiche’, ma si cercano corsi sportivi e attività particolari. Quindi per soddisfarre queste esigenze cerchiamo di offrire nuovi stimoli e di non limitarci a proporre un traghetto ma visite particolari e corsi. Un po’ questo è stato conseguenza dello sviluppo della Rete, che ha suscitato curiosità e interessi legati al viaggio”.

E si ritorna al punto di partenza, sono i tour operator a far diventare ‘di moda’ una vacanza, ma il web e soprattutto i social network permettono di ‘diffonderla’ in tempi rapidissimi come era impossibile solo qualche anno fa.
“Senza dubbio. Il passaparola e la condivisione sono cresciuti in maniera esponenziale con i social network e questo per noi da un lato è pubblicità gratis, dall’altro ci impone di essere attentissimi alle cose che offriamo. Ora, potendo controllare direttamente le strutture e i servizi che proponiamo, ci viene chiesta la massima trasparenza e affidabilità. Dobbiamo  di persona tutte le strutture prima di proporle perché è chiaro che una cattiva recensione ci può danneggiare. Del resto sul web non si cancella nulla”.

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